Desi News Corp - Index

Desi News Corp - Desi News - March 2009 - Index

as too much sun for sun-starved
northerners?
We stand awestruck in front
of a Mayan pyramid dedicated
to the rain god, Cha-ac – included
in the new seven wonders
of the world. The rain god
showers us with his blessings
and everyone scatters for shelter.
A man selling “emergency
rain ponchos” at an opportunistic
five dollars each does brisk
business.
The sun god finally reappears
and a cheer goes up. As we uncoil
and turn our faces to the sun,
a young Canadian laughs, “At
least it wasn’t freezing rain!”
We test the acoustics of an
ancient ball court and learn how
the player who got the winning
goal was beheaded – an honour
the best players vied for.
As we leave Chichen-Itza,
Carlos intones in a sombre
voice: “Do you know which
year the world was supposed to
end according to ancient Mayan
calculations? 2012, amigos!”
One is no longer allowed to
climb to the top of the pyramid.
Carlos tells us of one man who
ran up the steps.
“The authorities were waiting
for him below. Now he is
their guest at this all-inclusive fa-
cility,” he deadpans, pointing to
the state prison that we just happen
to be passing at that very
moment.
We stop at a sink hole, where
a cenote, or an underground river,
forms a deep pool. Twenty-two
metres deep, there are 80 steep
steps to reach the water that is
50 metres deep. Soon, people are
leaping into the cold water and
the stone cavern echoes with
their unholy yells.
At lunch, a group of dancers
entertains, a vigorous number
with bottles of beer balanced on
their heads drawing the most
claps.
We go into Playa del
Carmen for a day.
The hotel shuttle
drops us off at “Fifth Avenue”,
the street lined with what tourists
seek – souvenirs and local
food. As we stroll down the
street, a man draws me inside a
shop. “Come in! Come in!
Namaste prices!”
They are playing KK ’s Maaf
karey, insaaf karey, rab hona khafa,
sajda, mein karun pyaar ka sajda.
The shopkeeper says he doesn’t
know what the words mean or
who has sung it, he likes the beat!
Having been cautioned about
marked-up prices and told to
pay no more than half the asking
price, I walk out with a silver
bracelet for $25. The original
price was $75. I feel pretty
smug for a while, and then I
wonder if it is silver at all. More
like nickel-plated, I think. Oh
well, at least it has original Mexican
hieroglyphics, I tell myself,
trying not to think of the
Chahat bindis, made in India,
also being sold inside!
I want some habanero peppers,
having tried them at the
restaurants in the resort.
The woman at the tourist info
booth is astonished. “You like
habanero pepper? Not too hot? I
like hot but they are too hot!”
We stop at Ah Cacao, a
chocolate cafe. Lazily sipping
my Malteada – handmade
icecream whipped into a shake
– I am happy to see the little
cafe’s green heart. A pamphlet
encourages visitors to protect
the Mayan paradise.
Among suggestions:
• Avoid souvenirs made from
native wildlife such as coral, sea
shells, turtles, starfish, sharks, etc.
• Do not condone activities
which involve the removal of
animals from their native habitat
to entertain tourists.
• Sediment smothers coral –
avoid stirring up the bottom of
the sea and do not touch coral.
• Try to use a T-shirt rather
than sunblock when in water. If
you must use sunscreen, use one
that is biodegradable.
At Ah-Cacao, I learn that
chocolate was highly revered by
the Mayans and offered to gods
and rulers. It was believed to
form a bridge to the heavens.
We return to the resort and,
after dinner, go to the teatro for
the nightly concerts. The singer
on the AV they play is magical.
We have to have a CD of his
music.
“You like Alejandro Fernandez?”
asks the young DJ,
and offers to burn a DVD for us
– copyright be damned. Another
night, local artistes put up
a spectacular performance of
Mayan dance. Very vigorous,
very tribal. Very like the Bhil
dances one might see in India.
During our week, we see
three birthdays and a wedding
on the beach. Lots of singing,
All that shines is not silver
Tips on what to buy
where and what to
avoid in Mexico from
Carlos the guide (right, with a
Mayan seller of scarves):
• For a genuine Mayan souvenir,
get a cartouche. Small pendants
made of beaten gold and
silver sheets, engraved with your
initials in Mayan glyphics.
• Don’t buy a wooden mask
if it smells of gasoline, used to
kill termites. These are not allowed
in your hand baggage.
But beware of termites. “Otherwise,
a few years later, you will
• TOP: Chichen-Itza. ABOVE: A
beach bag with Hindi ad for jaljira!
BELOW LEFT: A Mayan ‘warrior’.
dancing, and the Mariachi. Gorgeous
flower arrangements,
bridesmaids in lilac gowns. And
the bride in a white gown and...
flip-flops!
Back in Toronto, the corals I
picked up are still warm in my hand
as I read about drug cartels and
beheadings, about extortions and
shoot-outs in Mexico.
So is the place safe or not?
The US classifies Mexico as a lawless
state. From the pampered safety
of a resort, it’s hard to tell. But a
week is good to experience a
large slice of sunny beach with
an order of salsa (both the relish
and the dance!) on the side.
find it jumping on your wall in
Canada!”
• All ‘silver’ is not silver, could
be silver-plated.
• All limestone carving is not
limestone, could be cement.
March 2009 Desi News 25